I have cats.

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Why can’t cats hang onto their fur? Because it’s more than their fur. It’s their metabolism indicator, their hunting strategy, and one of their coping skills.

While the luxuriant long coats of the Northern breeds are obviously to keep them warm in frigid temperatures, shorthaired cats are protected by their fur, too. White cats can get skin cancer on their lightly protected nose and ears, because these areas are only lightly furred. This explains why cats who resemble their wild ancestors often have a dark rim around their ears, and darker pigment on their nose. Almost a third of our cat’s total metabolism goes to the upkeep of their fur and skin. This keeps a fast “turnover” rate going, and leads to our cat’s high shedding rate.

The Norwegian Forest Cat is capable of shedding their winter coat of abundant long fur all over, and keeping only the tail and ears. We might notice a more abundant coat in our own cats in winter, especially if they spend a lot of time in harsh weather outdoors. But most cats are not exposed to the elements enough to trigger such seasonal behavior; instead, they shed somewhat, all the time.

The stripes and spots of our tabbies hint at the camouflage coats of the original, but now we’ve gotten all kinds of colors and patterns in our cats; and it doesn’t seem to have slowed down their hunting skills. But this is a further variation we’ve added to our cats, and it has resulted in breeds, such as the Persian, who need daily grooming to keep problems from developing. While all cats groom by instinct, to keep their fur clean and free of odors which can alert prey to their presence, they also enjoy the bonding we bring to the grooming experience. This makes grooming our cat both practical, and caring.

Cats can have three kinds of fur. The longer, stiffer, guard hairs in some breeds form a water-resistant overlayer to help shed water and snow. Cats have varying thicknesses of their downy undercoat, which forms an insulating layer; and is the main component that clings stubbornly to our fabrics. The visible fur most cats have are called awn hairs; and some, like the Spynx cat, lack even this, having a very short, suede-like “coat.”

The ShedMonster is an excellent tool to get rid of fur our cat is no longer using. I groom my cats once a week, and I still got a handful out of RJ the first time I used this.

It grooms all the layers of their coats, but it’s especially good for getting out the fluffy undercoat. This is the part most combs and brushes leaves behind. This keeps our cat cooler in summer, and keeps this hardest-to-remove layer off of our clothes and upholstery.

Mr WayofCats used it on his own (more hairy than mine) forearm to test its claim of safety, and was impressed. It didn’t catch on any hairs, or dig into his skin. This item has turned into everyone’s favorite grooming tool. I can make multiple passes before the tool gets full of fur, yet it’s easy to clean for another go. The grooming head glides over even sensitive places, and the amazing thing is that the cats just love it.

I got the longhaired version for this review, but it still worked to get some fluff off of shorthaired Tristan. It’s very sensibly priced, too. Amazon had the best price for either the longhair version, ShedMonster De-Shedding Tool for Medium to Long Coats, or the shorthair version, ShedMonster De-Shedding Tool for Fine or Short Coats.

Grooming is a wonderful care ritual that lets us bond with our cats, gets them used to handling, relieves their stress, and keeps their fur from getting all over the house.

The more the cats enjoy it, the more we will.

For tips on teaching our cat to love their grooming, see my post, Grooming the Cat and The Knotty Question for how to get the knots out, safely.

I received the Shedmonster free, for reviewing purposes. I am getting no further recompense for my review.

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How do we get those knots out of their fur?

And live?

As seen here, I have long haired cats. Shelters in the Northeast tend to accumulate such mixes.

(Olwyn looks like she’s quite a distance away from RJ, but she’s not. She’s rather petite, and RJ is just that big. Click on the picture for full size.)

But while I have long haired cats, they don’t give me the same coat grooming challenges. James Bond (medium length) and Olwyn (long length) never get knots; Puffy (long and very fine) used to get them if I didn’t stay on top of it twice a week, and Reverend Jim (long and very thick) will accumulate them on his hips if I don’t pay special attention.

There are three factors:

The length. I know it seems obvious, but the longer the fur, the more surface opportunities to knot up and create the impenetrable mass that resists combing and brushing. James Bond has fine fur, but it’s not long enough to give either of us trouble.

The texture. A cat with recent Persian influence will have very fine fur that knots when you look at it. “Natural breeds” like the Maine Coon, Norwegian Forest Cat, and Siberian tend to have fur that is thicker individually, and less knot-prone. RJ has a fine undercoat that is short, and his longer fur is thicker and coarser.

The guard hairs. These are the thick, stiff variety of fur which sheds water and snow. They are missing in many breeds designed to have long, soft, fur. When a cat does have them, it tends to keep the fine undercoat separated, and less knot-prone. Olwyn has long, very fine, fur, but it’s interspersed with abundant guard hairs.

Our cat’s coat will dictate the number and kind of grooming tools we use, and how often. I realized RJ had knots on his hips when I was delivering some scritches there. The comb had been gliding over them without my being aware of it; since he has protrusions of bone there, I don’t bear down in such a tricky area. So now it’s time for the right tool; a mat splitter.

Far too often, people try to either rip them out, or cut them out. But both of these plans are fraught with peril. We often don’t have a cat who is patient enough to let us tease them out, so then we are tempted to dig in with the comb and just get them out. But we certainly wouldn’t like this option tried on us. And we risk our cat never letting us near them with a comb again.

Likewise, we can sensibly decide yanking them out is a bad idea, but cutting them out with scissors can be an equally poor option. We still have to immobilize the cat, and our scissors can catch sensitive skin. Now the cat is planning to never let us near them. Period.

The mat splitter is a guarded razor blade in a handle. We notch the point into the mat, and cut through it, while the part which touches the cat’s skin cannot cut them.

Unlike a scissor, it tends to leave the unmatted fur behind. Since it cuts through the mat, it doesn’t pull on our cat’s sensitive skin. A few passes, and our comb can take the rest of the mat out with unbelievable ease.

Now our cat’s coat is matfree, we didn’t hurt them, and their fur doesn’t have a big hole in it!

For extra safety with squirmy cats, we can get a dematting rake. This has the razor blade embedded in the comb’s teeth; not quite the same professional look afterwards, but much safer for both the cat and ourselves.

When we get our cat used to a grooming routine, we eliminate 90% of our knot chances. But even though my cats love the ritual, and the treats afterwards, knots can still pop up. Here’s what to watch out for:

Speed. Puffy used to need grooming twice a week. Persians will need it every day. That’s how fast a knot can form.

Spots. All along the spine is often where knots appear, because the angle makes it difficult for cats to groom there. Their chest and neck have similar access challenges. Sometimes it doesn’t matter, as on their face, where the fur is short. But places where fur mingles, such as where their legs meet their body, is probably trouble.

Sensitivity. RJ got his knots right where his hips are close to the skin. I wasn’t bearing down there because it would hurt him. But now that I know he can get knots there, I’ll have to slow down and check with my fingertips.

All long haired cats have a Persian base. But for many breeds, it was far in the past, and mixed with more rugged attributes, such as their guard hairs. This can create mixes who need no more grooming than a short haired cat; or mixes who need the same daily fussing as a purebred’s coat does.

Kittens take a while to develop their guard hairs, so we can’t tell how much grooming we are signing up for when we adopt them at a young age. But since we are planning to make grooming just another bonding experience, it shouldn’t matter too much.

In addition to mat tools, I also have shedding tools, like the FURminator. Pulling out the dead underfur keeps knots from happening even better than combing or brushing does, and will keep fur off our furniture, floor, and clothes; and out of our cat’s digestive system.

Win-win.

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Cats who came from Northern climate adaptations have long fur and large, stocky, bodies which work for them in the winter; but not in the summer.

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How much help do cats need? It depends on the intersection between our weather and their adaptations. I have three longhairs, but they are not the same. Our little Olwyn has a slender build, medium length fur, and a relatively scanty undercoat, while Reverend Jim has the full Maine Coon; big barrel-shaped body, dense undercoat, thick overcoat.

So when our mountain summer first heated up, he did a lot of lying around. This made him easy prey for me and my shedding comb. His body was throwing off fur to help him adapt.

Do all cats shed more for summer? Depending on our cats’ exposure to the outdoors, this shedding can be more or less seasonal. Indoor only cats tend to made less obvious shifts in their coat. But all cats react to increased temperatures by adjusting the growth cycles of their “down,” or underfur.

Purebred Norwegian Forest Cats are famous for shedding their long fur everywhere (except for their heads and tails) as a summer adaptation. This is most prominent in purebreds; the effect is diluted in their mixes.

Should I shave my cat? If we live in a Southern climate and our cat suffers from the heat, we can consider it. Persians who do not have access to air conditioning will benefit the most. They have stocky bodies and dense fur which really hold in the heat, and their short noses make high temperatures and high humidity especially trying for them.

As to whether “we” should do it, or have it turned over to a professional groomer; that depends on the cat. In any case, we should go for the Lion Cut, which leaves the tricky head, feet, and tail alone. The minimal cooling effect from fur removal there is not worth the stress on both groomer and cat.

Do not make it too close a shave; cats use their fur to regulate their temperature and protect them from sunburn. Lightly furred cats like the Sphynx, who have suede-like, barely furred skin, are also prone to sunburn, and need protection.

Look for signs of distress. It’s normal for cats to react to heat by being attracted to sources of cool, from draping their bellies over the marble sill of the bathroom to lying in the path of a fan or air conditioner. But if our cat is panting, this is a sign the cat is dangerously overheated. Wipe them down with a wet paper towel, get their paws into cold water, and see if we can’t get them into a cooler place.

They should perk up right away; if not, or their distress is repeated, a vet check is in order. Such excessive reactions to heat might signal a heart or respiratory problem.

If our home is air conditioned to a temperature we find comfortable, our cat will be too. Even so, grooming our cat is a year round task that keeps our cat healthy, helps us keep tabs on any trouble spots, and creates a happy bond between us.

Here’s some tools to help:

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Grooming does more than reduce shedding and hairballs. Grooming lets the cat get used to human contact, by persuading them with a feel-good reward that is built into the process. If our cat is hand shy, or skittish about contact, a consistent grooming schedule is a way to connect with the cat.

• Start slow. Kittens will regard it as a game, adults will regard it as an intrusion. They will learn to see the fun in your approach with comb (long hairs) or brush (short hairs.) Start with a few strokes along the back, like petting, and with adults, try the back of the neck and then a face touch up. Follow with a treat. Let them wrestle with the tool at first. Later, when they learn to enjoy it for its own sake, they will stop doing that.
• Don’t push. This isn’t a task to be completed. Grooming stimulates the cat and they can get rowdy. If this happens, stop. It’s time for a treat. As the cat learns to relax and enjoy the petting aspect, you can cover more territory in a grooming session.
• Once the cat enjoys the grooming, don’t start with the face. Start with the tail, and work your way towards the face, which is their favorite part to be groomed. This way they learn to wait for their favorite part, and have more tolerance for touchy areas like hindquarters and belly. If they bail midway, let them. Come back the next day to go over the missed parts. Remember, fun.
• They will probably want the treat anyway, but get some token strokes in before you give it to them. Otherwise, they will milk the stuation.
• Take this opportunity to check their ears, their paws, and their teeth. They will put up with it for the reward they know is coming, which is the face fussing as much as the treat.
• Enjoy it. Get some petting and ear rubbing and affection in, and make it part of the grooming ritual.
• Don’t be offended if they go off and do touchups on your handiwork. This is part of coming down from the stimulation of the grooming, which cranks the cat up.

Grooming isn’t always about keeping the cat looking good, since most of them feel they are quite capable of that, thank you. Grooming is a way to connect with the cat and take care of them. So approach it with love, and they will respond.

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Hairballs are the cat’s way of getting rid of the hair that is an inevitable part of their self grooming process. We can help the cat by sticking to our grooming routine, and offering two natural substances the cat seeks out for management help.

The first substance is what the cat will find in the wild. Grasses are a small but important part of the cat’s digestive system, and most cats love being offered pots of oats, rye, catnip, or such herbs as thyme, sage, or parsley. When cats have their own plants to eat, they are more likely to leave ours alone.

It’s this same instinct that drives them to our houseplants in the first place. Divert the need, and they will learn “mine” and “yours.” It’s best to make sure houseplants are safe, anyway, so here’s a handy list of non-toxic plants.

There’s also a malt syrup/mineral oil combination that makes the fur pass through the cat’s digestive system. Easier for everyone! I have not had any luck with the high fiber treats that are supposed to help, since my cats refuse to eat them. I think the high fat option is probably better for an animal who is a carnivore, since they do not need very much in the way of fiber.

Mr. Bond has a sensitive stomach, and I had to change his diet to a more meat based food. Before we got him straightened out, with Mr. Bond as nervous as an ingenue on opening night, I too often heard, “Honey, did we put away the augh-augh-augh!”

Which meant he had stepped on it.

Mr. Bond does not like to cause distress. On his own, he came up with fishing a dirty sock out of the hamper and putting it across the offending object.

So now what I heard was, “Hey, what’s this sock doing augh-augh-augh!”

Which meant Mr WereBear had tried to pick up the sock.

Cats can also throw up from stress. Undigested food will have a different look, and needs to be addressed if it continues. But hairballs look the way they sound, and should not cause alarm.

A bottle of rug cleaner should be handy, and then our house is as fresh as anyone’s. A combination of a small amount of dishsoap with two parts water to one part vinegar works well and can be made up beforehand.

If something has lain unnoticed behind a chair long enough to dry up, a wet paper towel draped over it, and let to sit for a few hours, will let the carpet release all the problems.

Hairballs aren’t any fun, for us or the cat. We should try to make the problem “come up” as little as possible.

Apology for pun.

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There’s more ways to care for our cat with The Way of Cats than the article you are reading now. See all of my posts on CAT CARE.